Illustrations

Shannon McSheffrey; Ad Putter

Illustrations

Figures

1. Map of the Low Countries. © Jktu21/Dreamstime.com

2. Jan van Eyck, Portrait of Baudouin de Lannoy, c. 1439. © BPK, Gemäldegalerie, Staatliche Museen, Berlin

3. The hatmaker Rachel Frost in journeyman’s dress with a modern reconstruction of a feltmaker’s bow. Photograph Laurence Winram. © Rachel Frost

4. Small silver parcel-gilt figure of the Apostle James the Younger, 1500–19, of Dutch or German make. © Victoria and Albert Museum

5. Saint James the Great wearing a ‘jacobshoet’ or coppyn hat, the traditional pilgrim’s headgear. Lucas Cranach the Elder, “Saint James the Great.” © Harvard Art Museums collections online, R906, https://hvrd.art/o/242552

6. The Blackfriars’ Precinct in 1520 – Extract from A Map of Tudor London, 2nd edition, 2022, ed. C. Barron and V. Harding. © Historic Towns Trust, UK

7. London, Guildhall Library, MS 15838, fol. 1r. © Haberdashers’ Company

8. London, Guildhall Library, MS 15838, fol. 10r. © Haberdashers’ Company

9. London, Guildhall Library, MS 15838, fol. 2v. © Haberdashers’ Company

10. London, Guildhall Library, MS 15838, fol. 11v. © Haberdashers’ Company

11. Dialect map for k/c in kunnen, from https://www.middelnederlands.nl. © Pieter van Reenen

12. Dialect map for e/i variation in brengen, from https://middelneder- lands.nl. © Pieter van Reenen

13. Dialect map for ‘dese’/’desse’, from https://www.middelneder- lands.nl. © Pieter van Reenen

14. Dialect map for heilig, from https://www.middelnederlands.nl. © Pieter van Reenen

15. Dialect map for ‘vnt-’ in ontvangen. Created by Pieter van Reenen. © Pieter van Reenen

Tables

1. Early Evidence for Dutch Hatmakers in England, 1400–70

2. Comparison of the Language of the Scribes

The authors and publisher are grateful to all the institutions and individuals listed for permission to reproduce the materials in which they hold copyright. Every effort has been made to trace the copyright holders; apologies are offered for any omission, and the publisher will be pleased to add any necessary acknowledgement in subsequent editions.

Details

The Dutch Hatmakers of Late Medieval and Tudor London

Stable URL:https://openaccess.boydellandbrewercms.com/?id=-259604

At the end of the Middle Ages, a group of hatmakers from the Low Countries migrated across the North Sea to London. These men brought with them new skills and technologies, unknown to English artisans, becoming the first to manufacture brimmed felt hats in England. However, though their wares were immediately popular with English consumers, from courtiers to ordinary people, they faced an economic environment in London that restricted and sometimes completely disallowed the production and retail of their goods. In the early years of the sixteenth century, the hatmakers' desire to remain independent from regulation and governance by London civic guilds led to their formation of a craft association of their own. The Hatmakers' fraternity of St James operated for about a decade, until in 1511 the royal council mandated their amalgamation with and subordination to the powerful London Haberdashers' Company. In their short period of independence, the Hatmakers' guild wrote bilingual ordinances, in English and Dutch, regulating the craft of hatmaking in London. The small parchment booklet in which they wrote the ordinances, now housed in the London Guildhall Library, contains more than a simple list of craft rules: it reveals how these Dutch craftsmen negotiated their immigrant lives in both the specifics of their artisanal practice and the broader social and linguistic realities of their daily interactions.

SHANNON MCSHEFFREY is Professor of History at Concordia University in Montreal, Canada. She has written five books and numerous articles and chapters on aspects of English society, culture, and politics between 1400 and 1550.

AD PUTTER is Professor of Medieval English at the University of Bristol, UK, co-director of Bristol's Centre for Medieval Studies, and Fellow of the British Academy. He is the author and editor of numerous books, with particular interests in the works of the Gawain poet, and the literary heritage of Anglo-Dutch relations.

Author

Shannon McSheffrey and Ad Putter

PublisherBoydell Press

Print publication date Aug, 2023

Print ISBN 9781837650804

EISBN 9781805430681

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Illustrations

The Dutch Hatmakers of Late Medieval and Tudor London

Chapter illustrations ()